2003 Baer Winery Arctos Red Wine Columbia Valley

89(+?)

($32; 72% cabernet sauvignon 10% merlot, 8% cabernet franc, 7% petit verdot and 3% malbec) Medium ruby. Aromas of roasted black raspberry, smoked meat and licorice. Ripe on entry, then more youthful and less open than the Ursa, conveying an impression of greater shape and energy. Offers an attractive restrained sweetness. A clean, fairly plump wine that needs another 12-18 months of cellaring.

2003 Baer Winery Ursa Red Wine Columbia Valley

89

($27; a blend of 50% merlot, 44% cabernet franc, 5% cabernet sauvignon and 1% malbec) Medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, licorice, tarry oak and beefsteak tomato. Sweet, lush and plump, with fat, forward flavors offering considerable early appeal. A seamless if softer blend, finishing with slightly dry but fine tannins.